You should become more aware of your cat’s body postures, and cease petting or stop any other kind of interaction before a bite occurs.Signals to be aware of include:
When you observe any of these signals, it’s time to stop petting your cat immediately and allow her to sit quietly on your lap or go her own way, whichever she prefers. Any kind of physical punishment usually makes the problem worse, because your cat is more likely to bite either because she is fearful and/or because petting becomes even more unpleasant if it is associated with punishment.
If you want to try to prolong the amount of time your cat will tolerate petting, use some food rewards. When your cat first begins to show any of the behaviours described above (or even before she does so) offer her a special titbit of food like a tiny piece of tuna or boiled chicken. At the same time, decrease the intensity of your petting. Continue to lightly pet your cat for a short time period while offering her titbits. In this way, she’ll come to associate petting with pleasant things and it may help her to enjoy petting for longer periods.
Each time you work with your cat, try to pet her a little longer each time using the food as a reward. Be sure to stop the petting before she shows any aggression. If a display of aggression results in the petting being stopped, then this unacceptable behaviour has worked.
Cats that are fearful may display body postures, which appear to be similar to canine submissive postures – crouching on the floor, ears back, tail tucked and possibly rolling slightly to the side. Cats in this posture are not submissive – they are fearful and defensive and may attack if touched (see our handout – The Fearful Cat).
Redirected aggression occurs when a cat is aroused into an aggressive response by one person or animal, but then redirects this aggression onto another person or animal. For example, if two family cats have a spat, the losing cat, still aroused, may walk up and attack the family child.
Cats are highly territorial, even more so than dogs. However, they usually only feel the need to defend their territory from other cats. Territorial aggression in cats isn’t commonly directed at people.
Determining an effective aversive reaction for your cat is definitely a case of trial-and-error, as individual preferences will vary with each cat. This is often the best method to discourage a cat from a particular action or place, but will seldom work effectively without an alternative that is both convenient and rewarding.
You may need to weigh the “material” firmly to tape it in order for it to stay put. To protect furniture or floor finish from sticky substances, attach them to a piece of foil or heavy plastic and secure that with weights or light tape.
Heavy plastic carpet runner (pointed side up)
Soak cotton balls, rags or washcloths in the “stinky” (see below) substance. To help protect carpets, upholstery, floors or furniture, place the saturated substance from seeping into the ground, use the same precautions. Outdoor substances need to be reapplied daily, due to dissipation into the air.
Some of these substances may damage furniture or floor finishes, so be sure to test them in a hidden location before widespread use. Except for hot sauce and cayenne pepper, these substances should be safe to apply to most peoples’ skin; however some individuals may be sensitive to them.
Use these to get your cat’s attention, and thereby offer an appropriate alternative.
DIARRHOEA + ILL = TAKE TO THE VET – If your pet has diarrhoea with other symptoms such as lethargy, temperature, vomiting, take your pet to the Vet.
DIARRHOEA + NOT ILL = 2 DAYS DIET + ORS : IF STILL NOT BETTER, TAKE TO THE VET – If your pet has diarrhoea and no other symptoms and doesn’t seem ill, treat at home using the following regime for two days. If the diarrhoea doesn’t go after 2 days, take your pet to the Vet.
DIETCHICKEN BROTH + CHICKEN BREAST + WHITE RICE.Boil all together and feed your pet a little portion six times a day. As your pet gets better, mix its own food with the chicken and rice diet for two to three days.
Or1 Litre BOILED WATER/MINERAL WATER + 8 SUGAR CUBES + 1 teaspoon SALT.Make small amounts available to your pet during the day. If your pet does not like it, just give plain water.
A LITTLE BIT OF BLOOD IN THE STOOLS IS NO CAUSE FOR CONCERN. THIS COMES FROM THE SMALL BLOOD VESSELS OF THE GUT RUPTURING BECAUSE OF HEAVY SPASMS OF THE GUT.
REMEMBER : approximately 90% of diarrhoea is not serious or life threatening and can be treated at home following the guidelines above
Play-motivated aggressive behaviour is common in young, active cats that are less than two years old especially if they are the only cat in a household. When cats play, they incorporate a variety of behaviours into their play, such as exploratory, investigative and predatory antics. Play provides young cats with opportunities to practice skill they would normally need for survival. Kittens like to explore new areas and investigate anything that moves and may bat at, pounce on and bite objects that resemble prey.
Kittens learn how to inhibit their bite from their mother and littermates. A kitten separated from the family too early may play more roughly than one that has had quality family time. In addition, if we play with a young kitten using our hands and feet instead of toys, the kitten can learn that rough play with us is okay. In most cases, it’s possible to teach your kitten or young adult cat that rough play is not acceptable behaviour.
Redirect your cat’s aggressive behaviour onto acceptable objects like toys. Drag a toy along the floor to encourage your cat to pounce on it or throw a toy away from your kitten for them to chase. Some cats will even bring the toy back to be thrown again! Another good toy is one that your kitten can wrestle with like a stuffed toy that’s about the size of your cat. They will grab it with the front feet, bite it and then kick with the back feet. This is one of the ways kittens play with each other. It is also one of the ways they try to play with human hands and feet so it is important to provide this type of alternative play target. Encourage play with a “wrestling” toy by rubbing it against your kitten’s tummy when they want to play roughly. Be sure to pull your hand out of the way as soon as they accept the toy!
You need to set the rules for your kitten’s behaviour and every person your cat meets should reinforce these rules. Your kitten can’t be expected to learn that it is okay to play rough with Dad but not with the baby!
Firstly, use aversives to discourage your kitten from nipping. Squirt your kitten with a bottle filled with water and small amount of vinegar or a can of pressurised air when play becomes too rough. To use this technique effectively, you will always need to have the spray bottle or can handy. Alternatively, you can apply taste aversives to your hands. If you have sensitive skin you may wish wear gloves on which you have put the aversive.
The aversives will only work if you offer your kitten an alternative so redirect the behaviour after using the aversive. After you startle your kitten with the aversive, IMMEDIATELY offer them a toy to wrestle with or chase. This will encourage them to direct rough play onto a toy instead of you. Keep a stash of toys handy especially for this purpose.
If redirection methods do not seem to be working when your kitten starts to play too roughly the most drastic thing you can do to is to withdraw all attention. Your cat wants to play with you so eventually they will work out how far they can go if you keep this limit consistent. The best way to withdraw your attention is to walk away into another room and close the door long enough for your cat to calm down. You should be the one to leave the room because if you pick your cat up to put them in another room, your cat is being rewarded by your touch.
None of these methods will be very effective unless you give your cat acceptable outlets for their energy and play with your cat regularly using appropriate toys. Attempts to tap, flick or smack your cat for rough play will backfire because these moves can be interpreted as play encouraging rougher play from the cat. Playing with your cat is entertaining, relaxing and one of the rewards of being a cat owner.
When animals have not had much attention in their lives and are then showered with love, affection and companionship, they very quickly become attached to their new owners. This can sometimes be to the point where your pet becomes your constant shadow, never wanting to leave your side. Separation Anxiety arises when you have to leave your pet for a time and they do not know how to cope when you are not around.
Your pet can become anxious to the point of destruction because they have to relieve their frustrations. The behaviour symptoms may vary from urinating or messing because they are so worried they can’t control their bladder or motions, through to chewing and destroying items usually with your scent on them. Bad, unwanted habits from your pet’s past may reappear and sometimes even self-mutilation can occur where your pet chews their feet or tails, breaking the flesh and causing sores.
Thus Separation Anxiety simply means that your pet becomes anxious to varying degrees because it is separated from you. If your pet is displaying these symptoms, DO NOT DESPAIR! The helpful tips opposite will show you how to train your pet so overcoming this problem.
This is general advice which cannot cover every eventuality but may be a start to solving the problem.
When cats feel threatened, they usually respond in three ways to the object, person or situation they perceive as a threat: fight, flee or freeze. Some cats become so frightened they lose control of their bladder or bowels and eliminate right where they are. Each cat has his/her preferred way to dealing with a crisis. You’ll notice that your cat probably tends to try one option first and, if that doesn’t work, she’s forced to try a different option. For instance, if your cat is afraid of dogs and a friend brings his dog to your home to visit, you might notice the following: first, your cat puffs out her fur to make herself look big, then hisses and spits at the dog. If the dog doesn’t retreat, your cat may flee the situation, find a hiding spot and freeze until she deems the situation safe.
It’s normal for you to want to help and comfort your cat when she is frightened. However, this isn’t necessarily the best thing to do from your cat’s point of view. It’s normal for a cat to feel insecure or frightened in a new environment. Often, your new cat will hide a day or two when you first bring her home. Sometimes traumatic experiences like a visit to the veterinarian, or introducing a new animal into the household, can disrupt her routine and send her under the bed for a few days.
You’ll need to closely observe your cat to determine the trigger for her fearful behaviour. Keep in mind that just because you know that the person or animal approaching your cat has good intentions doesn’t mean that she feels safe. The trigger for her fearful behaviour could be anything. Some common triggers are:
Take the following steps to reduce your cat’s anxiety and help her become more confident.
Definitions
Dogs and cats will sometimes eat socks, rocks or other objects, which may result in a variety of problems for both you and your pet. Not only can your possessions be destroyed or damaged, but objects such as clothing and rocks can produce life-threatening blockages in your pets’ intestines. Eating non-food items is called pica. A specific type of pica is stool eating (either their own or that of another animal) and, while not necessarily dangerous to the animal, it is probably unacceptable to you. Stool eating is called coprophagy.
The causes of pica and coprophagy are not known. Many ideas have been proposed by various experts, but none have been proven or disproved. Such behaviours may sometimes be attention-seeking behaviours. If engaging in one of these behaviours results in some type of social interaction between the animal and his owner (even a verbal scolding) then the behaviour may be reinforced and occur more frequently. These behaviours may be attempts of obtaining a necessary nutrient lacking in the diet, although no nutritional studies have ever substantiated this idea. They may also stem from frustration or anxiety. It is possible the behaviours begin as play, as the animal investigates and chews on the objects, then subsequently begins to eat or ingest them.
It has been suggested that coprophagy is carried over from the normal parental behaviour in ingesting the waste of young offspring. Some experts believe coprophagy occurs more often in animals that live in relatively barren environments, are frequently confined to small areas and/or receive limited attention from their owners. Coprophagy is fairly common in dogs, but is rarely seen in cats and is seen more often in dogs which tend to be highly food motivated. It’s also possible that dogs learn this behaviour from other dogs.
Because pica and coprophagy are behaviours that are not well understood, stopping them may require assistance from an animal behaviour professional who works individually with owners and their pets. A variety of specialised behaviour modification techniques may be necessary to resolve these problems.
Because the cause of coprophagy isn’t known, there are no techniques or solutions that are consistently successful. The following techniques may or may not be, effective in resolving the problem.
In Bahrain’s dry climate, parasites are not as much of a problem as in other parts of the world. If your pet is parasite-free and is eating only his stool, he cannot be infected with parasites by doing so. If your pet is eating the stools of another animal that has parasites, it may be possible, although still unlikely, for your pet to become infected. Some parasites, such as giardia, cause diarrhoea, and most coprophagic dogs ingest only formed stools. There is also a delay period before the parasites in the stools can re-infect another animal.
Most parasites require intermediate hosts (they must pass through the body of another species, such as a flea) before they can re-infect another cat or dog. Thus, your pet is much more likely to become infected with parasites through fleas or by eating birds and rodents than by coprophagy. Most parasites are also species-specific, meaning that dogs cannot be infected by eating cat stools. Health risks to humans from being licked in the face by a coprophagic animal are minimal. For more information, please contact your vet.
Pica can be a serious problem because items such as rubber bands, socks, rocks and string can severely damage or block an animal’s intestines. In some instances, the items must be surgically removed. Because pica can be potentially life threatening, it’s advisable to consult both your vet and an animal behaviour professional for help.
It’s normal for cats to scratch objects in their environment for many reasons:
Because scratching is a normal behaviour, and one that cats are highly motivated to display, it is unrealistic to try to prevent them from scratching. Instead, the goal in resolving scratching problems is to redirect the scratching onto acceptable objects.
Where are they located? Prominent objects, objects close to sleeping areas and areas near the entrance to a room are often chosen.
NO!!Punishment is effective only if you catch your cat in the act of scratching unacceptable objects and have provided her with acceptable scratching objects. Punishment after the fact, won’t change the behaviour, may cause her to be afraid of you or the environment and may elicit defensive aggression. Used by itself, punishment won’t resolve scratching problems because it doesn’t teach your cat where to scratch instead. If you do catch her in the act of scratching inappropriate objects remote punishment is best, in which you do not directly interact with her. Ideas for remote punishment include making a loud nose (using a whistle, shaking a pop can filled with rocks or slapping the wall) throwing a pillow at her or using a water-filled squirt bottle. If punishment is interactive, she’ll learn to refrain from scratching in your presence but will continue to scratch when you are not there.
To help keep them sharp, cats keep their claws retracted except when they are needed. As the claws grow too long and become curved, they can’t be retracted completely. You should clip off the sharp tips of your cat’s claws on all four feet every week or so. Clipping your cat’s claws will also help prevent them from becoming snagged in carpets, fabric and skin.
Before trimming your cat’s claws, accustom her to having her paws handled and squeezed. You can do this by gently petting her legs and paws while giving her a treat. This will help to make it a more pleasant experience. Gradually increase the pressure so that petting becomes gentle squeezing, as you’ll need to do this to extend the claw. Continue with the treats until your cat tolerates this kind of touching and restraint. It may take a little longer if she’s not used to having her legs or paws handled.
Apply a small amount of pressure to her paw, with your thumb on top of her paw and your index finger underneath, until a claw is extended. You should be able to see the pink or “quick” which is a small blood vessel. Don’t cut into this pink portion, as it will bleed and be painful for your cat. If you cut off just the sharp tip of the claw, the “hook”, it will dull the claw and prevent extensive damage to household objects and to your skin.
There are several types of claw trimmers designed especially for pets. These are better than your own nail clipper because they won’t crush the claw. Until you and your cat have become accustomed to the routine, one foot a day is enough for a challenge. Don’t push to do all four at once, or you’ll both have only negative memories of claw clippers.
Kittens are usually weaned at six or seven weeks, but may continue to suckle for comfort as their mother gradually leaves them alone more and more. Orphaned kittens, or those weaned too soon, are more likely to exhibit inappropriate suckling behaviours later in life.
Ideally, kittens should stay with their littermates (or other role-model cats) for at least 12 weeks. Kittens orphaned or separated from their mother and/or littermates too early often fail to develop appropriate “social skills”, such as learning how to send and receive signals, what an “inhibited bite” means, how far to go in play-wrestling and so forth. Play is important for kittens because it increases their physical co-ordination, social skills and learning limits. By interacting with their mother and littermates kittens learn “how to be a cat” as well as explore the ranking process (“who’s in charge”).
Kittens that are handled 15 to 40 minutes a day during the first seven weeks are more likely to develop larger brains. They’re more exploratory, more playful and are better learners. Skills not acquired during the first eight weeks may be lost forever. While these stages are important and fairly consistent, a cat’s mind remains receptive to new experiences and lessons well beyond kitten-hood. Most cats are still kittens, in mind and body, through their first two years of life.
The following chart provides general guidelines for the stages of development.
0 – 2 weeks = Neonatal
2 – 7 weeks = Socialisation
0 – 2 weeks = Neonatal
2 – 7 weeks = Socialisation
7 – 14 weeks = Most active play period
3 – 9 months = Ranking Period
| Formula 1: | Formula 2: |
| Half a cup of milk | 3 tablespoons of condensed milk |
| 1 egg yolk | 2 tablespoons of full fat plain yoghurt |
| 1 drop infant vitamins | 2 egg yolks |
| 3 Tums (a good source of calcium) | 4 tablespoons water |
Mix ingredients together and keep refrigerated. Slightly warm the formula before feeding. Feed every 4 – 6 hours until kitten turns away (use a dropper or nipple bottle).
“A crying kitten is either a cold kitten or a hungry kitten”.
Begin offering regular cat food at 4 weeks of age (crunchy food mixed with water/milk to soften it. Gradually decrease liquid over time). Kittens can be completely weaned by 6 weeks of age.
For young kittens stimulate bowels and bladder by gently rubbing the rear end of the kitten with a wet cotton ball. Continue this until kitten can use the dirt tray by itself. DO THIS AFTER EVERY MEAL.
Make a dirt tray available at 3 weeks of age as kittens will begin to use it by instinct and repetition. Use one inch of dust free clean litter in a litter box.
Keep kittens warm by placing them in a box lined with a towel. Use a heat lamp, hot water bottle, or heating pad placed over one third to one half of the box.
Handle kittens regularly to get them used to human contact.
The BSPCA will adopt out kittens when they reach about 8 – 10 weeks of age.